The new face of Teroldego
Foradori’s wines Morei and Sgarzon show the great potential of the rare grape variety Teroldego
Although Foradori’s new style was a break with tradition, the Teroldego from their Morei and Sgarzon vineyards demonstrate the enormous potential of this autochthonous variety. Even to this day, all of the wines from the estate continue to refine their individuality, character and, dare we say, ‘soul’.
About a decade ago, the first single vineyard wines matured in amphoras were introduced to the market. The two crus from Teroldego are Morei und Sgarzon, both located in the Campo Rotaliano vineyards near Mezzolombardo. The two whites are from the hills north of Trento. One is a pure Manzoni Bianco, the other a seductive expression of Nosiola. Both are named Fontanasanta.
If anyone outside of Italy knows these grape names it is certainly because of Elisabetta Foradori, a captivating enthusiast for all three. Within the past few years, though, her name has slowly become a synonym of Teroldego.
Before others had much even heard the word, she adopted biodynamic agricultural practices and decided to mature Morei and Sgarzon in 400 litre amphoras to better emphasize the characteristics of each single site.
As Elisabetta explains, “the amphora is simply wonderful. Its material and form represent the connection between cosmos and earth. Different from wooden barrels, amphoras impart no flavours to the wine, thus best underlining the purity of the variety and the nature of the soil where it was grown”.
Both Morei and Sgarzon are small vineyards of only two hectares situated near the winery. Each label highlight the importance of the cru concept. Morei and Sgarzon are written in bold letters, followed by the variety, Teroldego, in smaller ones.
For both white wines, Foradori rented eight hectares northeast of the city of Trento. Situated on rock terraces and steep slopes, the vineyards appear quite picturesque as they are embedded in a landscape of acacias, oak trees, wild roses and bushes, crisscrossed by small fountains and streams. Fontanasanta means holy fountain in Italian. Is that not an omen for a wine?
Even though Nosiola is considered to be the oldest variety in Trentino, it is still quite hard to find. That, though, was the ideal challenge for Elisabetta Foradori! The wine is fresh and aromatic on the nose; on the palate, a refreshing bitter note, combined with nuts, fascinates most tasters.
Manzoni Bianco received its name from Luigi Manzoni, the director of the viticulture university in Conegliano, who in the 1930s succeeded in crossing Riesling with Pinot Blanc, creating an elegant wine with hints of honey and wild flowers. It is the only one of Foradori’s four new wines which does not mature in amphoras, but in oak and acacia barrels!