Jurtschitsch

Alwin Jurtschitsch and his German wife, Stefanie, are currently producing some of the most elegant and stylish Grüner Veltliner and Riesling in the Kamptal, that magical growing region along the Danube in the northern part of Lower Austria.

“Even if grapes love sun, they prefer the winemaker’s shadow”. This witty phrase is a French idiom that Alwin simply adores! He then adds: “Don’t close your eyes when you walk through the vineyard, but rather listen and feel what the vines are telling you”.

This energetic young couple has changed a great deal since they inherited the estate from Alwin’s parents in 2009. As he explains: “Each generation has to rediscover its roots and reinterpret their sense of place”.

After having spent several years of apprenticeship in Ecuador, Australia and France, Alwin’s family had called him back a few years earlier and convinced him to study oenology in Geisenheim, where he met his wife, Stefanie Hasselbach, from the Gunderloch estate in Rheinhessen.

Biological farming was the logical consequence

Once they had decided where they wanted to go to, and how their wines should taste, the transition to biological farming was the only alternative. Similarly, they wanted no artificial flavours imparted by cultured yeasts or new wood, which often make a Grüner Veltliner taste like Sauvignon, to alter their wines.

Taking their inspiration from science, they began looking for solutions that are both natural and intelligent in order to maintain the soils’ balance and stimulate the variety of microorganisms that nourish the vines.

Herbal teas, whey powder and natural compost are now helping to keep the vineyards healthy and as autonomous as possible. Although only allowed between the vines when they cannot nibble the grapes, so too are the sheep that add to the biodiversity.

Stefanie is primarily responsible for wine production. Since the beginning, the principal goal of the couple has been to know their vineyards by heart. Fortunately for the two, they are among the most famous sites in the Kamptal with awe inspiring names like Dechant, Lamm, Heiligenstein, Käferberg and Loiserberg. All classified as premiers crus, they bring water to connoisseur’s lips.

In order to increase the natural aromas and acidity of the grapes, the couple also decided to advance harvest time. They wanted to avoid the overripe fruit flavours that had become all too common in the region. Vintage 2011 was the first which represents this new style that they envisioned: fine, elegant and cool, the wines can also be enjoyed in their youth.

Don’t panic, it’s organic!

After what you’ve read about the couple, it’s quite clear that you won’t find any cutting edge technology in their cellar. Minimal intervention is the mantra. Not surprisingly, all wines are fermented slowly with natural yeasts. “Don’t panic, it’s organic!” is the slogan Stefanie recalls should fermentation unexpectedly stop for some reason.

Beyond their new interpretation of classical wines, they also produce some special project wines such as Belle Naturelle, an unfiltered Grüner Veltliner that is a quite enchanting way to enter the world of natural wines!

Only happy vintners make good wine

Alwin Jurtschitsch is a multifaceted personality with a multitude of visions. Amongst others, he adores the dry stone walls that can still be found in the Kamptal and restores those that collapse in order to maintain older vineyards rather than grubbing them out.

A real “wine maniac” with a head full of projects and never ending experiments, be it amphoras, ceramic vats or oak stored for five years to make special casks. Alwin is convinced, as he says, that “only happy vintners can create really good wines”. If that is true, then he must be a very happy man.